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“So what’s it like,” I asked Vincenzo, the affable Neapolitan manager of Campagna di Caldesi, “being number four in Bray?” He shrugged resignedly. “Whatcha gonna do? We cannot compete with them.” This is not what Bertie Wooster called “the spirit that wins” – did you ever hear Andy say such a thing? – and in my Lendlish guise I simply will not tolerate such defeatism. For this, my cousin Nick and I came to agree, is a fine restaurant with the potential to become an outstanding one. All it needs is to believe it belongs in such stellar company.